2014 - Caballo Blanco Ultra
Deep in the mexican canyons something amazing is taking place
I cannot sleep. I am still on a sweat-canyondust&hills-heat induced magical high after today’s Caballo Blanco Ultra. I know my words won’t pay justice in describing this incredible run and week-long experience. But I’ll try my best.
The people, the camaraderie, the terrain, the story behind this “race" is the essence of why I run.
While I wish everyone could make it down to these remote Mexican canyons; part of me also hopes this place remains too hard to get to and maintain its magic.
The race takes its name from the spirit name of Micah True who started it 12 years ago - Caballo Blanco.
Caballo created the race to help the Mexican “indigenous” running people (Tarahumaras) to keep their culture alive.
He died last year while on a run, but his spirit, legend and legacy lives on in these canyons.
Caballo, the Tarahumaras and the canyons surrounding the little town of Urique have been made famous by Christopher McDougall best-selling book “Born to Run” which has inspired millions of people around the world.
The people, the camaraderie, the terrain, the story behind this “race" is the essence of why I run.
While I wish everyone could make it down to these remote Mexican canyons; part of me also hopes this place remains too hard to get to and maintain its magic.
The race takes its name from the spirit name of Micah True who started it 12 years ago - Caballo Blanco.
Caballo created the race to help the Mexican “indigenous” running people (Tarahumaras) to keep their culture alive.
He died last year while on a run, but his spirit, legend and legacy lives on in these canyons.
Caballo, the Tarahumaras and the canyons surrounding the little town of Urique have been made famous by Christopher McDougall best-selling book “Born to Run” which has inspired millions of people around the world.
Lidia using the huge mirror in our bedroom
From Australia, it took us (Lidia, Terence and I) 2 flights and 3 days in a ultraold minivan held together by tape (no jokes) to get down to Urique. While the trip wasn’t as dramatic as it was described in the book, it does take a lot of trust towards the driver’s skills to get the vehicle through the narrow gravel roads edging the canyons...
When we finally arrived, it felt like stepping into a different dimension.
We headed straight to the only “restaurant” of the town, Zia Tita, where we were welcomed by other international runners and Maria (Caballo’s partner). Everyone was extremely friendly and helped us translate things into Spanish to order our food and keep the beers flowing. When I told one runner about the accommodation I booked, he laughed out loud. “I have been there before” he said “Sorry man!”. “What do you mean?” I asked “That’s the Old Jail” he responded.
After some back and forth with the owner of the place, we managed to “check-in” and, Indeed, the accommodation was as bare as you would expect in a Mexican jail in a desolated canyon! Hot water… or water for that matter, was an issue but we had the advantage to be very central, next to the main square. Advantage until you realise the Mexicans like to party till very late, especially the night before the race!
When we finally arrived, it felt like stepping into a different dimension.
We headed straight to the only “restaurant” of the town, Zia Tita, where we were welcomed by other international runners and Maria (Caballo’s partner). Everyone was extremely friendly and helped us translate things into Spanish to order our food and keep the beers flowing. When I told one runner about the accommodation I booked, he laughed out loud. “I have been there before” he said “Sorry man!”. “What do you mean?” I asked “That’s the Old Jail” he responded.
After some back and forth with the owner of the place, we managed to “check-in” and, Indeed, the accommodation was as bare as you would expect in a Mexican jail in a desolated canyon! Hot water… or water for that matter, was an issue but we had the advantage to be very central, next to the main square. Advantage until you realise the Mexicans like to party till very late, especially the night before the race!
Meeting the local little runners
The few days leading up to the race are full of activities, spent visiting the town, the church, the schools and the whole course. Every day we would jog/run/climb at least 20km. Perfect tapering!
As the days pass, the Raramuris begin to appear in town. They dress in their traditional colourful clothes and wear their now famous “huraches”, sandals made of car tires and leather strings tied around the ankles. They hang out very shyly with the bright clothes, without interacting much with the locals.
The 50 miles (80 km) race consists of 4 loops. The first loop is from Urique to Guadalupe church and back to a bridge at the edge of town (15km). The second loop is from the bridge to Les Naranje and back to Urique (15km). The third from Urique to Los Alisos and back to Urique (34km). The last loop from Urique back to the Guadalupe church and return into Urique (16km).
For each loop completed, runners receive a bracelet and the next day, the bracelets can be exchanged for a bag of corn flour.
And this is a big thing for the Raramuris, as they literally live off that corn flour from which they make food and even drinks. So everyone old enough to jog participate; kids as young as 10 to 70+. Not everyone will run the full 80 km, but they will all complete at least the first two loops – which I still think is pretty impressive.
While most Mexicans and all us gringos have come down to the race with high tech running gear, all sorts of nutritional supplements and hydration solutions, the Raramuris turn up in their sandals with nothing else. Some of them after walking for few days with little food. And because they are so polite and shy they don’t ask for food even when it’s free. Even at the aid stations during the race, volunteers have to insist for them to get some water.
Nevertheless they run like hell, no matter the age or sex! And they love hills.
As the days pass, the Raramuris begin to appear in town. They dress in their traditional colourful clothes and wear their now famous “huraches”, sandals made of car tires and leather strings tied around the ankles. They hang out very shyly with the bright clothes, without interacting much with the locals.
The 50 miles (80 km) race consists of 4 loops. The first loop is from Urique to Guadalupe church and back to a bridge at the edge of town (15km). The second loop is from the bridge to Les Naranje and back to Urique (15km). The third from Urique to Los Alisos and back to Urique (34km). The last loop from Urique back to the Guadalupe church and return into Urique (16km).
For each loop completed, runners receive a bracelet and the next day, the bracelets can be exchanged for a bag of corn flour.
And this is a big thing for the Raramuris, as they literally live off that corn flour from which they make food and even drinks. So everyone old enough to jog participate; kids as young as 10 to 70+. Not everyone will run the full 80 km, but they will all complete at least the first two loops – which I still think is pretty impressive.
While most Mexicans and all us gringos have come down to the race with high tech running gear, all sorts of nutritional supplements and hydration solutions, the Raramuris turn up in their sandals with nothing else. Some of them after walking for few days with little food. And because they are so polite and shy they don’t ask for food even when it’s free. Even at the aid stations during the race, volunteers have to insist for them to get some water.
Nevertheless they run like hell, no matter the age or sex! And they love hills.
An incredibly vibrant atmosphere at the start line
The race starts at 6am, with just enough light to see where you are going. It is warm and I decide to wear just a t-shirt; I’m sure the climbs ahead will warm me up. My race goal is to finish in around 8 hours, a tough target given the course and expected heat. My strategy is to push (without overdoing it) for the first half, and then hang on! For nutrition, I plan to have one gel every 10km. I also have a couple of bars. I wear a hydration pack only to carry stuff as I will pick up water at the aid stations. After all the spicy food and beans of the last days I hope not to have too many toilet stops.
Terence and I start in the first 25% of the pack, with around 150-200 people in front of us. Lidia has decided to run the first loop and possibly some of the second, starts near the back of the pack. We start off at a good pace which we maintain up the first hill. It’s a bit crowded and difficult to overtake. At the second hill, some Raramuris take a shortcut trail to climb up, apparently they are “allowed” to do that while everybody else needs to follow the course… mmmmmhh. After 5km or so, Terence picks up the pace while I keep on mine. I don’t wear a heart rate monitor but I can feel my heart pumping hard. I run all the hills up to Guadalupe and collect my first bracelet. On the way down I get some serious speed, low 4mins/km. I try to keep up with a couple of Raramuris who seem to let the legs “flow” down the hill. I get to the bridge in 1:06, perfect time.
I have no idea what to expect on the second loop, I only know that it has a single track section. My heart rate is still pretty high and I’m wondering if I am not pushing too hard. Will I pay for this later? I continue on and I overtake a few Raramuris. Some of them are way past their pension age, I am impressed that they ran the first section so fast.
We get to the single track and I start walking, it’s too rocky and steep. Not for the Raramuris. They sprint – literally – up the trail. I’m shocked. I am close to red lightjust walking, I’m breathing hard and these guys go up like a breeze. Even an old guy in his sixties, keeps overtaking me on the hills. I get him on the flat bits but I stand no chance on the hills. Surely, they know the course and be used to the terrain but truly look effortlessly light in their running style.
The single trail keeps going up and up and it’s getting warmer and warmer. I am starting to reconsider my target time. I have obviously underestimated the course and been too positive on my running capabilities. As these thoughts come to mind, I look at my forearms where I wrote the words “Believe. Focus. Strong”. And I push on.
Terence and I start in the first 25% of the pack, with around 150-200 people in front of us. Lidia has decided to run the first loop and possibly some of the second, starts near the back of the pack. We start off at a good pace which we maintain up the first hill. It’s a bit crowded and difficult to overtake. At the second hill, some Raramuris take a shortcut trail to climb up, apparently they are “allowed” to do that while everybody else needs to follow the course… mmmmmhh. After 5km or so, Terence picks up the pace while I keep on mine. I don’t wear a heart rate monitor but I can feel my heart pumping hard. I run all the hills up to Guadalupe and collect my first bracelet. On the way down I get some serious speed, low 4mins/km. I try to keep up with a couple of Raramuris who seem to let the legs “flow” down the hill. I get to the bridge in 1:06, perfect time.
I have no idea what to expect on the second loop, I only know that it has a single track section. My heart rate is still pretty high and I’m wondering if I am not pushing too hard. Will I pay for this later? I continue on and I overtake a few Raramuris. Some of them are way past their pension age, I am impressed that they ran the first section so fast.
We get to the single track and I start walking, it’s too rocky and steep. Not for the Raramuris. They sprint – literally – up the trail. I’m shocked. I am close to red lightjust walking, I’m breathing hard and these guys go up like a breeze. Even an old guy in his sixties, keeps overtaking me on the hills. I get him on the flat bits but I stand no chance on the hills. Surely, they know the course and be used to the terrain but truly look effortlessly light in their running style.
The single trail keeps going up and up and it’s getting warmer and warmer. I am starting to reconsider my target time. I have obviously underestimated the course and been too positive on my running capabilities. As these thoughts come to mind, I look at my forearms where I wrote the words “Believe. Focus. Strong”. And I push on.
The canyon from above - yes, you go up those steep climbs
Whatever goes up must come down! And after the hill there is a long stretch of downhill. The terrain is rocky and I can feel a big blister on my right big toe. It is very painful and I will have to stop in Urique and tape it. I can’t run another 55km on it.
On the way down, I meet Lidia again coming up the opposite direction. She has decided to run past the first loop. She is 4 months pregnant but you can’t stop her once she has decided she wants to do something. I only hope she listens to my advice to turn around and avoid the very hard single trail.
The stretch back to Urique is pretty flat and I get some good speed. I am running 4:20s and 4:30s. I pass the town centre at 30km in just under 3 hours, and I hear the speaker saying that I’m in 32nd position. Sweet.
I keep up the fast pace on the long 8.5km stretch before the big hike up to Los Alisos. It’s mostly flattish with few shorts inclines. This stretch is in the open, at the bottom of the canyon. There is no shade. The temperature is quickly rising and by the time I will be running the same stretch back, it will be very hot.
I hiked the “Los Alisos” on Thursday and I am worried. It’s a long and very steep hike with very few runnable sections (or runnable for me). I take a gel just before the hike and get in the zone. Once again, some Raramuris seem to enjoy the challenge. They run up the hills and I catch them when it flattens enough for the rest of us to jog.
It’s an out and back and half way up, the race leader appears, running full speed. He is Raramuri (no surprise) and behind him no one. 7 minutes later another Raramuri, and 5 minutes later another one. The first “gringo” is 5th. The temperature is rising and I start to overheat. I keep looking at my forearms for comfort and to gain focus. When I’m 15 minutes from the top, I meet Terence coming down. We talk for few seconds and he tells me that he has hit the wall big time on the climb but he is ok now. Oh shit!
I get to the top and I take a couple of minutes to rest before taking a deep breath and start the crazy descent. The terrain is soft so you need to be fast on your feet, the trail has barely space for two people so you need to call out to people to move if you don’t want to end up down in the valley in the poppy fields.
There are a few hills on the way down too and I cannot run them anymore. My “strong” message on my forearm is fading from sweating like the “strong” in my legs. My heart is still working hard, even when I walk the flats.
On the way down, I meet Lidia again coming up the opposite direction. She has decided to run past the first loop. She is 4 months pregnant but you can’t stop her once she has decided she wants to do something. I only hope she listens to my advice to turn around and avoid the very hard single trail.
The stretch back to Urique is pretty flat and I get some good speed. I am running 4:20s and 4:30s. I pass the town centre at 30km in just under 3 hours, and I hear the speaker saying that I’m in 32nd position. Sweet.
I keep up the fast pace on the long 8.5km stretch before the big hike up to Los Alisos. It’s mostly flattish with few shorts inclines. This stretch is in the open, at the bottom of the canyon. There is no shade. The temperature is quickly rising and by the time I will be running the same stretch back, it will be very hot.
I hiked the “Los Alisos” on Thursday and I am worried. It’s a long and very steep hike with very few runnable sections (or runnable for me). I take a gel just before the hike and get in the zone. Once again, some Raramuris seem to enjoy the challenge. They run up the hills and I catch them when it flattens enough for the rest of us to jog.
It’s an out and back and half way up, the race leader appears, running full speed. He is Raramuri (no surprise) and behind him no one. 7 minutes later another Raramuri, and 5 minutes later another one. The first “gringo” is 5th. The temperature is rising and I start to overheat. I keep looking at my forearms for comfort and to gain focus. When I’m 15 minutes from the top, I meet Terence coming down. We talk for few seconds and he tells me that he has hit the wall big time on the climb but he is ok now. Oh shit!
I get to the top and I take a couple of minutes to rest before taking a deep breath and start the crazy descent. The terrain is soft so you need to be fast on your feet, the trail has barely space for two people so you need to call out to people to move if you don’t want to end up down in the valley in the poppy fields.
There are a few hills on the way down too and I cannot run them anymore. My “strong” message on my forearm is fading from sweating like the “strong” in my legs. My heart is still working hard, even when I walk the flats.
It's really hot, whether you are wearing short, skirt or denim(?!)
Eventually, I get down to the bottom of the canyon, cross the suspending bridge on the river and get ready for the 8.5km back. It’s 11:15 and the sun is high. The run back is painful, I need to walk even the slightest incline. I have to force myself to run the flats too. My pace has dropped significantly. The only good thing is that I meet a lot of people I know that are running in the opposite direction, so I get to say “Hi” and exchange encouraging cheers while I think “OMG – they are going to be cooking up that hill!”.
At the edge of town, when the long stretch of dust gradually change to a paved road, I find myself again. I manage to focus on my running form, clear my head and pick up the pace.
As I approach the town centre, Lidia runs towards me with the most beautiful and comforting smile. All the fatigue disappears for an instant. She says 2 magic words, fresh coca cola and potatoes with salt. She has prepared an aid station for me. I drop off my backpack as I won’t carry it anymore, I eat a slice of potato and I wash it down with coca cola. But that’s all I can eat. I wobble a little and Lidia cools me off with chilled water on my head. I grab a bottle of water and I leave. It’s 12:06, I am 6 minutes behind my target time and I have 16km to go. I may still be able to do 8 hours but that means running the hills. Mmmmhhh.
The couple of minutes with Lidia picked me up, mentally and physically. I take off at under 6mins/km. I get to the bridge pretty comfortably but as the first climb approaches my legs stop responding. I am back walking again. Damn. Every time the trail flattens a little, I attempt a run, sometimes I manage to break through and continue; other times I aim for a big rock a short distance away and the one after.
At the edge of town, when the long stretch of dust gradually change to a paved road, I find myself again. I manage to focus on my running form, clear my head and pick up the pace.
As I approach the town centre, Lidia runs towards me with the most beautiful and comforting smile. All the fatigue disappears for an instant. She says 2 magic words, fresh coca cola and potatoes with salt. She has prepared an aid station for me. I drop off my backpack as I won’t carry it anymore, I eat a slice of potato and I wash it down with coca cola. But that’s all I can eat. I wobble a little and Lidia cools me off with chilled water on my head. I grab a bottle of water and I leave. It’s 12:06, I am 6 minutes behind my target time and I have 16km to go. I may still be able to do 8 hours but that means running the hills. Mmmmhhh.
The couple of minutes with Lidia picked me up, mentally and physically. I take off at under 6mins/km. I get to the bridge pretty comfortably but as the first climb approaches my legs stop responding. I am back walking again. Damn. Every time the trail flattens a little, I attempt a run, sometimes I manage to break through and continue; other times I aim for a big rock a short distance away and the one after.
Smiling for a strong finish over Richard - sorry mate!
I see in the distance the profile of Richard, a runner I met on Thursday that overtook me in the first loop. I focus on him. My new challenge is to reach him. He is a fair bitaway but I believe I can get him. This thought immediately fills me with purpose.
I start to push and overtake a few runners, Mexicans mostly. At 10-15 minutes from the top, I meet Terence again on his way down. We stop a second and he says he is cramping up, but still looking strong. I am happy, apart from overheating and a blister, my body is ok.
I gain ground rapidly on Richard, and I catch up with him on the last climb before the church. We run together and chat for a couple of minutes, then I wave goodbye and push on to reach the church ahead of him. And this re-invigorates me. A quick look at the watch gives me the confidence I can go under 8 hours, and possibly catch up with the next “gringo” ahead, Nick from the Inov-8 team.
I start the downhill at full speed. I try to relax as much as possible and feel the downhill like I did in the morning. At every step my toe screams but it doesn’t matter anymore. I’m light and feel good, until the first hill. Damn, I need to walk again.
10 minutes down the hill, I hear Richard’s voice again. “Hey Luca, we can go under 8 hours. I would much rather finish in 7:59 than 8:01. We just need to push these little hills”. A part of me is disappointed Richard caught up so quickly at the same time this is a good motivation to keep moving.
We run most of the up-hills, as slow and as painful they may be. And we let the legs roll on the downs. We catch Nick just before the bridge and we check our watches. We have 2.5 km to go and we have 19 minutes. We can do it. We all start off together.
Richard and I pick up the pace and drop Nick. We run side by side now and we are rolling. At 1 km from the finish line Richard says “You are not going to sprint me at the end, are you?” I reply “Well, we must put on a show, we need to finish with a sprint!” “Ok then” Richard says. We pick up the speed and at 500 meters to the finish chute I take off in full sprint. There are people on the road, everywhere. There are kids playing and all of the sudden, one kid runs backward without watching and I don’t get the time to swerve or shout. Boom! I hit him and fall to the ground, arm and elbow first. I look at my arm and there is a long scratch and blood starts to come out. But I hear Richard catching up, so I get up and start sprinting again.
I open my arms and shout “Arriba Arriba Arriba!” as I reach the finish line in 7:52 min. I place 21st overall, a great result and a huge personal satisfaction.
What a magnificent day, a stunning and challenging course, surrounded by inspiring people and strong natural runners.
The first 6 runners were Raramuris and local Mexicans with a winning time of 6h:38min.
Terence placed 16th in an amazing 7:35
Lidia, ended up running 23km ! Carrying the youngest ever Mas Loco runner!
My arm and hand are swollen and bruised. My glute too. How funny… I had 80km of trails and challenging terrain to take a fall, and I fell on the road 300 meters from the finish!
I start to push and overtake a few runners, Mexicans mostly. At 10-15 minutes from the top, I meet Terence again on his way down. We stop a second and he says he is cramping up, but still looking strong. I am happy, apart from overheating and a blister, my body is ok.
I gain ground rapidly on Richard, and I catch up with him on the last climb before the church. We run together and chat for a couple of minutes, then I wave goodbye and push on to reach the church ahead of him. And this re-invigorates me. A quick look at the watch gives me the confidence I can go under 8 hours, and possibly catch up with the next “gringo” ahead, Nick from the Inov-8 team.
I start the downhill at full speed. I try to relax as much as possible and feel the downhill like I did in the morning. At every step my toe screams but it doesn’t matter anymore. I’m light and feel good, until the first hill. Damn, I need to walk again.
10 minutes down the hill, I hear Richard’s voice again. “Hey Luca, we can go under 8 hours. I would much rather finish in 7:59 than 8:01. We just need to push these little hills”. A part of me is disappointed Richard caught up so quickly at the same time this is a good motivation to keep moving.
We run most of the up-hills, as slow and as painful they may be. And we let the legs roll on the downs. We catch Nick just before the bridge and we check our watches. We have 2.5 km to go and we have 19 minutes. We can do it. We all start off together.
Richard and I pick up the pace and drop Nick. We run side by side now and we are rolling. At 1 km from the finish line Richard says “You are not going to sprint me at the end, are you?” I reply “Well, we must put on a show, we need to finish with a sprint!” “Ok then” Richard says. We pick up the speed and at 500 meters to the finish chute I take off in full sprint. There are people on the road, everywhere. There are kids playing and all of the sudden, one kid runs backward without watching and I don’t get the time to swerve or shout. Boom! I hit him and fall to the ground, arm and elbow first. I look at my arm and there is a long scratch and blood starts to come out. But I hear Richard catching up, so I get up and start sprinting again.
I open my arms and shout “Arriba Arriba Arriba!” as I reach the finish line in 7:52 min. I place 21st overall, a great result and a huge personal satisfaction.
What a magnificent day, a stunning and challenging course, surrounded by inspiring people and strong natural runners.
The first 6 runners were Raramuris and local Mexicans with a winning time of 6h:38min.
Terence placed 16th in an amazing 7:35
Lidia, ended up running 23km ! Carrying the youngest ever Mas Loco runner!
My arm and hand are swollen and bruised. My glute too. How funny… I had 80km of trails and challenging terrain to take a fall, and I fell on the road 300 meters from the finish!
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